Thaddeus Kosciuszko National Memorial Philadelphia, Pa.
Visited: March 24, 2004
Second Visit: December 7, 2006
NPS Site Visited: 5 of 353 NPS Website; Local Website
Want More? Read About Our Phun-Philled 2004 Philadelphia Phoray. Click Here for the In-Depth Recount of that Day.
WHAT IS IT?
Small townhouse where Kosciuszko (pronounced kosh-CHOOSH-koh) lived in the winter of 1797-98 after his exile from Poland.
The Kosciuszko House is one of many quaint Federal-style redbrick houses in Philadelphia's charming Society Hill neighborhood. Its corner lot, well-maintained exterior and adjoining cobblestone streets scream "I am worth a ridiculously high price per square foot."
HISTORIC SIGNIFICANCE (5/10)
During Gab's first days as an English teacher in Poland, her students asked for her thoughts on Thaddeus Kosciuszko. Gab's sheepish reply was "Who?"
Her students vociferously responded, "You do not know Kosciuszko!?! He saved your country!" Their fantastic conclusion holds much merit in romanticized legend-making Revolutionary War retellings. Kosciuszko was one of a handful of young, brilliant Age of Enlightenment values-driven Europeans who aided the American Revolution through military, intellectual and spiritual means. Both he and the Marquis de La Fayette returned to their respective countries post-American Revolution with the aim of spreading our new nation's liberal democratic ideas to their homelands.
Kosciuszko arrived in the Colonies in August of 1776, a 30-year-old military engineer who had been living in Paris. The Park Brochure states that he traveled across the Atlantic on his own spontaneous accord, wrapped up in the fever of the colonial uprising. Other reports say that Benjamin Franklin recruited his services while in Paris. In October 1776 Kosciuszko was named head engineer of the Continental Army.
From there the legend grows. Kosciuszko's engineering genius allowed for a successful retreat at Fort Ticonderoga, an historically monumental victory at Saratoga and the successful creation of a Hudson River fortress stronghold at West Point. More of Kosciuszko's handiwork can be seen at the Ninety Six Battlefield in South Carolina.
Kosciuszko returned to Poland in 1784 where he helped write the Polish Constitution, modern Europe's first, and was named Commander in Chief of the Polish Army. From 1792-94, Kosciuszko successfully defended Poland against a 100,000-soldier strong Russian Invasion, winning every battle. The Polish King, however, surrendered to the Russians. Intrigue, treaties and confusion abounded. In late 1794, the Kosciuszko Uprising, a last-ditch attempt to expel the Russian influence, failed and Tadeusz was imprisoned in Siberia.
In 1797, Tadeusz was freed and exiled to the United States. Where did he live? Right here in Philadelphia at Pine and 3rd, just blocks from Independence Hall. He lived here for less than a year before returning to Europe with plans to free Poland.
If you are of Polish decent this rating could be higher. In fact, we think we may have upped it a little bit already.
No one. While it would have been nice to have seen someone else, more people would have made the Site's four tiny rooms unbearably cramped. At approximately 900 square feet, this Site is the NPS's smallest. In 2005, the Kosciuszko House averaged 16 visitors per day so all Revolutionary War buffs of Polish descent suffering from claustrophobia can be sure of a fear-free visit.
EASE OF USE/ACCESS (2/5)
In 2004, we scratched our brave Altima's left front while parallel parking into a too-small space.
In 2006, there were at least a half-dozen open spaces in a one-block radius. "We've got two hours of free parking, Gab. Want to go to Independence NHP? It's only a few blocks away." "Uh, no. That wasn't in the plan." "Well then, it's settled. Let's see the Liberty Bell." And we did. And we had fun, says Michael.
The Kosciuszko House has shortened its operating hours in the last year. Its door is now open from 12 noon to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Even so, pull hard. We found the door defiantly locked at 12:30 p.m. until a Ranger unlatched it and let us in.
The few Kosciuszko-related knickknacks for sale were wholly unmemorable.
Sadly, the wonderful six Kosciuszko lithographs designed by Art Institute of Philadelphia students and on display inside the House are not for sale. We got some good pictures, however, and they might soon adorn our apartment walls despite the Park's shortsightedness.
RANGER/GUIDE TO TOURIST RATIO (3/5)
Ranger to Tourist Ratio: High.
Ranger Interest to Tourist Interest Ratio: Very Low.
Both our 2004 and 2006 visits revealed a less-than-enthusiastic on-duty Ranger with minimal Kosciuszko knowledge and an I've-just-been-sent-to-National-Park-purgatory look on their face. Perhaps they're just lonely from only seeing 16 visitors per day.
Little effort has gone into the educational offerings at this tiny Site. The 1970's-produced cartoon film is action-filled campy fun but begins and ends with Kosciuszko's Revolutionary War exploits. We wanted more information on the Polish Constitution, the Kosciuszko Uprising and Tadeusz's dealings with Napoleon. Since the Park brochure and other handouts are printed in both English and Polish, we are guessing other visitors want more background info too.
The Site's marquee (or is it marquis) attraction is Kosciuszko's recreated boarding house bedroom, stuffed with period furniture, symbolic items and sequestered behind bullet-proof glass. A push-button tape recording dispenses a general recap of the bedroom's contents. A Ranger-led recap would have been nice; it's not like they are overwhelmed with visitors or a sprawling mansion.
Kosciuszko is our favorite Revolutionary War hero. He is dashing, he is a military genius and he is Polish. Every Kosciuszko statue, every Kosciuszko-named town and every Kosciuszko-related Park Site makes us giddy. We love you dear Tadeusz. You saved our country.
WOULD WE RECOMMEND? (2/10)
This Site is only for fellow Kosciuszko enthusiasts. His exploits are better understood at the battle sites. Saratoga NHP shows his unparalleled strategic genius while Ninety Six reveals his subtle artistic eye and unorthodox creativity.
After reading this review, has your passion for Kosciuszko reached an uncontrollable ecstasy? If yes, then get to Philly soon! The Ranger told us that the House will soon undergo renovations and, perhaps, a multi-year closure.
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